Dig Camera

Colin McGregor colinmc151-bJEeYj9oJeDQT0dZR+AlfA at public.gmane.org
Mon Dec 25 01:24:32 UTC 2006


--- Jamon Camisso <jamon.camisso-H217xnMUJC0sA/PxXw9srA at public.gmane.org> wrote:
> John McGregor wrote:
> > ISO 3200 capability may note be the panacea that
> you are looking for. 
> > The max aperture
> > for the FinePix 31 is f2.8. At that aperture, my
> Sekonic L398 light 
> > meter indicates a shutter speed
> > of 1/30 sec or longer for candle light (or similar
> light level). Since 
> > the FinePix 31 lacks image stabilization
> capability,
> > this means that using a tripod is an absolute
> must. It's been my 
> > experience that a shutter speed of
> > 1/125 sec or shorter is necessary to to prevent
> camera shake being 
> > transferred to images. FWIW, I just had my
> > light meter serviced and it is as accurate as the
> day it was made (it's 
> > 12 yr. old).
> 
> It was always so easy with film where you just made
> sure your ISO 
> setting was greater than the length of your lens (as
> a general rule of 
> thumb of course). Hard to do now with "35mm
> equivalent" measure 
> manufacturers use for their built in lenses. Gotta
> just save up and buy 
> me a proper SLR or go back to shooting Velvia on the
> old Pentax.

Huh?

With my Minolta semi-auto 35mm camera (aperture was
manual, by default shutter speed was auto) I would
normally shoot with the likes of a 38mm lens (wide
angle, but not so wide as to get the pronounced fish
eye look) and 1600 ASA film (fast enough to be able to
work without a flash in average room light). As for
shutter speed, as long as my camera told me it would
use a shutter speed of 1/60 sec. or faster I knew I
would normally be blur free...

My $0.02 anyway...

Colin McGregor
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